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Numismatic Acronyms
Term Definition ACG= Accu Grade
ADO= Abraded Die Obverse
ADR= Abraded Die Reverse
AG= About Good
ANA= American Numismatic Association
ANACS= American Numismatic Association Certification Service
AU= About Uncirculated
BS= Business Strike
BREEN= Walter Breen Listing
BU= Brilliant Uncirculated
BV= Bullion Value
CML= CONECA Master Listing
CC= Condition Census (Highest Grade Known)
CC= Carson City (Mint)
CCW= Counter Clockwise
CONECA= Combined Org. of Numismatic Error Collectors of America
CN= Cupro-Nickel
CPG= Cherry Picker's Guide
CUD= Major Die Break
CW= Clockwise
DC (DCAM)= Deep Cameo
DD= Doubled Die
DDD= Die Deterioration Doubling
DDO= Doubled Die Obverse
DDR= Doubled Die Reverse
DMPL Deep Mirrors Proof Like
DMR= Die Marriage Registry
EDS= Early Die State
EF= Extremely Fine
EMDS= Early Mid Die State
EPU= E Pluribus Unum
FBL= Full Bell Lines
FS= Full Steps
FS= Fivaz-Stanton Listing
FSB= Full Split Bands
FSNC= Full Step Nickel Club
ICG= Independent Coin Grading Service
KM= Krause-Mishler Listing
LDS= Late Die State
LMDS= Late Mid Die State
MAD= Misaligned Die
MD= Master Die
MDD= Machine Damage Doubling
MDO= Master Die Obverse
MDR= Master Die Reverse
MDS= Mid Die State
MM= Mint Mark
MMS= Mint Mark Style
MPD= Misplaced Date
MS= Mint State
NCADD= National Collectors Association of Die Doubling
NLG= Numismatic Literary Guild
NTC= Numitrust Corporation
OBV= Obverse
ODV= Obverse Design Variety
OMM= Over Mint Mark
PCGS= Professional Coin Grading Service
PCI= Photo-Certified Coin Institute
PF= (PRF) Proof
PL= Proof Like
PQ= Proof Qualities
PR= Proof
PUP= Pick Up Point
PVC= Poly Vinyl Chloride
QDO= Quadrupled Die Obverse
QDR= Quadrupled Die Reverse
RDV= Reverse Design Variety
REV= Reverse
ROT= Rotated Reverse
RPD= Repunched Date
RPM= Repunched Mint Mark
RPMP= Repunched Mint Mark Punch
SD= Series Doubling
SDO= Series Doubled Obverse
SDR= Series Doubled Reverse
SEGS= Sovereign Entities Grading Service
SMS= Special Mint Set
SNOW= Rick Snow Listing
SP= Specimen
TDO= Tripled Die Obverse
TDR= Tripled Die Reverse
UC= Ultra Cameo
UNC= Uncirculated
URS= Universal Rarity Scale
UVC= Universal Variety Code
VAM= Van Allen-Mallis Listing
VEDS= Very Early Die State
VG= Very Good
VF= Very Fine
VLDS= Very Late Die State
WDDO= Wexler Doubled Die Obverse Listing
WDDR= Wexler Doubled Die Reverse Listing
WH= Working Hub
WHO= Working Hub Obverse
WHR= Working Hub Reverse
WRPM= Wexler Repunched Mint Mark Listing
XF= Extremely Fine

What is Cameo?

Cameo is a method of carving, or an item of jewellery made in this manner. It features a raised (positive) relief image; contrast with intaglio, which has a negative image. The effect of "cameo" also refers to a proof coin that has frosted lettering and features, providing attractive contrast with the mirrored fields of the coin. The terms "deep cameo" and "ultra cameo" describe cameo coins having the boldest, most attractive contrast.

A cameo can be made of two types of material, commonly precious or semi-precious stone. One material is carved into a figure, the most common type being a profile portrait of a person's head. This is then set upon the other type of material which provides a background of another colour to offset the figure. This is called an assembled cameo.

Alternately, a cameo can be made from (banded) agate, where different layers of the same stone have different colours. Sometimes dyes are used to enhance the colours. Cameos are often worn as jewellery. Cameos of great artistry were made in Greece dating back as far as the 6th century BC. They were very popular in Ancient Rome — the Gemma Claudia made for the Emperor Claudius found its way into the Hapburg collections — and have enjoyed periodic revivals, notably in the early Renaissance, and again in the 17th and 18th centuries. This visual art form has even inspired at least one writer of more recent times: the nineteenth-century Russian poet Lev Mey composed a cycle of six poems entitled "Камеи" ("Cameos", 1861), as reflections on each of the Roman rulers from Julius Caesar to Nero. in 1852 Théophile Gautier titled a collection of his highly polished, lapidary poems, Emaux et Camées ("Enamels and Cameos").


What is PVC?

What is PVC residue?

PVC residue is a surface contaminant that may be caused by storing a coin in a soft, pliable vinyl flip. The amount of time a coin needs to reside in a vinyl flip before the PVC film develops will vary significantly, depending on temperature, humidity, the age of the flip, and the type of coin. Under optimal conditions, PVC residue can begin to form in as little as two weeks. At ANACS, we only use Mylar flips. Mylar flips are free of all PVC.

The composition of a coin is a strong factor with the formation of PVC residue.

A gold or platinum coin will be the most resistant, a silver coin is next, and a copper or copper-nickel coin will be the most susceptible. Copper and copper-nickel coins are also highly susceptible to corrosion and/or spotting from excessive moisture and high emperatures. Due to this, collectors need to be extra careful with their choices of storage materials for these coins.

During the manufacturing process for soft vinyl flips, an agent is added to increase pliability. The main reason for this is to allow the flips to be reused without breaking or tearing. This softening agent will migrate out of the plastic over time, and becomes the surface film that is called “PVC Residue.” As this film continues to degrade, it eventually turns into a mild acid, and begins to attack the surface of the coin. Until the film is removed from the coin, it is usually not possible to tell if the coin has been damaged. Additionally, this chemical reaction can continue even if the coin is sealed in an inert plastic holder. This is why ANACS does not encapsulate coins with active PVC contamination.

Recognizing PVC residue is not always easy. When the residue begins to form, it often appears as light milky spots on the coin. PVC residue also appears as streaks or a light haze, and ranges from nearly white to dark green or gray. If the coin has enough ontamination, and your sense of smell is good, you will detect an odor that imitates the smell of a new plastic shower curtain.

For most coins, removal of PVC residue is a simple process. Gold, platinum and silver coins are easier to decontaminate than copper and copper-nickel coins, and business strikes are easier than Proof coins, but as with any coin, proper caution must be utilized. Pure acetone is the best solvent for PVC residue removal, and like many solvents, acetone must be handled properly in a controlled environment.

When using acetone, proper ventilation is a necessity, and extended exposure is not recommended. Wearing chemical-resistant gloves and eye protection is a good precaution against accidental acetone contact with your skin or eyes. You also need to avoid any type of open flame or spark, as acetone is highly flammable. If you are uncomfortable with these types of procedures, it is recommended that you make use of a PVC removal service to decontaminate your coins.

Pour a small amount of pure acetone (the kind you can purchase in the paint section of a hardware or home improvement store) into a small glass or metal container. Acetone can eat through plastic, so using a plastic container is not recommended. With light PVC residue, gently swishing the coin back and forth in the acetone while holding the coin with a gloved hand will often remove the residue. Let the coin air dry afterwards on a soft cloth to avoid damaging the coin’s surfaces, and then inspect carefully.

With heavier residue, or contamination that has been on the coin for more than a month or two, more effort will be required. In these instances, the use of Q-tips can handle the residue. Begin by soaking the head of a Q-tip in the acetone, then carefully roll the head of the Q-tip across the surface of the coin. Make sure that the head of the Q-tip stays wet, as a dry Q-tip could scratch the coin. Continue to work the surfaces of the coin for about 15 seconds or so, then inspect the head of the Q-tip. If the process is working, you should see a green, gray or brown discoloration on the cotton tip.

Throw the first Q-tip away, and repeat the process with a second Q-tip. Continue until the head of the Q-tip remains white after working the surface of the coin. Once this happens, turn the coin over and perform the same operation on the other side. After all visible PVC residue has been removed, and the Q-tip stays clean, place the coin on a clean, soft cloth and let it air dry. You can also give the coin a few light swishes through the acetone, to remove any remaining traces.

As with any restoration process, proper care must be used at all times to prevent damage to the coin’s surfaces. Experiment with low-value coins first to familiarize yourself with the process. Done correctly, using pure acetone to remove PVC residue will not harm the surfaces of a coin, but if performed improperly, you could end up with a hairlined or otherwise damaged example.

Source: ANACS


All About Coin Rolls

There are several types of rolls of U.S. coins available. The summary below lists each common type of circulating U.S. Coin, as well as how many coins are in the standard, or shotgun, coin roll. A half-roll will have half as many, and a double shotgun roll will have twice as many.

Cent rolls have 50 coins; $0.50 value

Nickel rolls have 40 coins; $2.00 value

Dime rolls have 50 coins; $5.00 value

Quarter rolls have 40 coins; $10.00 value

Half Dollar rolls have 20 coins; $10.00 value

Dollar rolls have 25 coins; $25.00 value



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